There’s more than one way to install heavily loaded vinyl for maximum effect. The industry standard is to mount the MLV directly to the stud or joist frame using an industrial stapler or heavy duty roofing nails with large plastic heads. This method is called membrane method or diaphragm method. MLV works well when placed in film on a wall or ceiling, but it can also be sandwiched between 2 layers of drywall or other types of wall panels. The jury is still out on the optimal thickness of drywall. For better frequency dispersion, it is best to use a layer of 5/8″ drywall, then MLV as a diaphragm (sandwich), then add a layer of ½” drywall or Homasote. Different materials really help with sound insulation, especially when we want to get every STC point with as little effort as possible.

There isn’t a lot of information online about alternatives for bulk loading vinyl installations, hopefully we’ll be able to explore them here.
If you are building your walls using the staggered stud method, it can be beneficial to actually weave the vinyl outside of the staggered stud assembly itself. The image above gives you an idea of ​​what it looks like. The key to braiding MLV (or any barrier material) is to seal the vinyl as much as possible. In the case of a horizontal weave (the most common weave), it is best to overlap the seam by at least 1 inch and seal the overlap with acoustic caulk and good quality seam tape. The MLV’s weave also helps cancel out the sound which is much like a different material, except “turbo”.

You can also use braid on standard stud walls, provided there is no drywall installed on either side of the stud. (Just open the studs) This braiding method can be blocked by the stud beam, so if you plan on braiding, it is best to only use vertically mounted studs. If you are weaving MLV on a wall that usually has nails, the level of the drywall on the nails may be problematic. If your stud is 16 inches on center, every other stud will be 1/8 inch wider than a stud without MLV braided on top of it. To keep both sides of the drywall even, you can stick soundproof tape to every other stud not covered by the braided MLV, this will make all stud surfaces flat and even, and the drywall will sit evenly on the studs.

Based on feedback from on-site contractors, we have found that the more moisture the wood structure gets, the better the sound insulation of the wall or ceiling components. This is especially true for impact noise from above. There are many ways to dampen wood frame assemblies, some more effective than others. Some contractors use blown cellulose to suppress joist or stud construction, but cellulose has no quality, and while it helps to a certain extent, it is better than using blown closed cell foam or my favorite foam (which requires Some ceiling demos) are lined with closed cell vinyl nitrile foam pads (America Mat is a good choice) in the cavity area between the studs and joists for maximum damping. The foam pads will stick to the studs and wallboard in the stud cavity (provided you only have drywall on one side of the wall). This ensures that the wood structure is fully damped and, if properly sealed, will provide additional sound insulation due to sealing these cavities. Sealing dead air spaces is God’s natural soundproofing method, as I like to call it. I’m sure you’ve read many analogies about sealing dead air. If you were able to seal the dead air area and actually create a vacuum in that space, you’d be surprised how much sound transmission would be blocked.

I hope this little story is helpful, especially if you’re doing new construction for your home theater or music studio in your home. Thanks for reading and learning together. This is Dr. Bob…..get out! ! ! ! ! !

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